Leo's profileAIOLIAPhotosBlogLists Tools Help

Blog


    September 28

    Somewhere Familiar?

    大家能不能看出这个背景会有些似曾相识?为了方便辨认我已经PS了诸多。不过可以确定的是天际线没有变,后面是葡萄园,地点也是照wiki上面找的。

    没有能在最好的时间拍到,不过只要有人猜出来,就算没有白费功夫吧。

    知情人请先稍安毋躁。

    DSC_9754

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    更新比对一下吧。地点在Sonoma。我原来一直以为这张照片是草地,现在一看,怎么是葡萄园了。再查了一下,拍原版照片的时候,确实还没有种葡萄啊。

    Bliss


    September 13

    Thousand Island Lake Trekking

    劳动节的前一周,收到了来自南加的邀请去Thousand Island Lake backpack hiking。思索了一番后还是决定去吧,这样本来一个悠闲的劳动节回南加活动一下子就变成了要 去到廖无人烟的高山上。打开我家的storage room,我的那些camping的东西还是停留在family style的阶段,只好带上父母,走了几家店,作为他们离开美国前最后一周的shopping活动,买了以下装备:

    2-person tent (REI 正好有deal,这个比我的4-person tent轻太多了)
    20F sleep bag (以前的sleep bag 只够在家里招待临时来的人吧。每次出去camping都冻死。这次索性买了个mummy样式的。Surplus Store有deal。顺带说一下,其实surplus store里面往往可以淘到不少outdoor的好东西。还有就是各种各样的军服,打彩弹多的可以考虑一下)
    hiking shoes (这个本来没有准备买,店里有一双太便宜了,老爸老妈忙说买吧买吧,不过这双还是起到了很大作用的)
    non-cotton underwear (傅队长特意关照,还发了科普短文,所以要支持一下)
    jacket, hiking pants (似乎多买了,店里打折多,收不了手了)。
    power bars, de-hydrated food packages...

    hiking pack我上次在去Alaska已经买了一个大的,最后经验证明这是个失策。这个hiking pack腰上面吃不上力,全靠肩膀,最后很吃力。

    一边买,一边要跟老爸老妈解释一下怎么backpack,其实我也没有多少实际经验,所以就轻描淡写一番,诸如要背熊罐子之类的举动就不说了。blah blah blah的不少,老爸晚上帮我打了包,看着那个20多磅有我半人高的包,他也不是特别想得通为什么要找这样自找苦吃呢?两天里面没有电,没有外界联系,还要再背上水。不过他还是很认真的帮我配了重,这样我的背包两头不会吃力不均。

    劳动节周六送走老爸老妈去了机场后,我就载上一车同去hiking的同学,开始了这个旅程。两天里面hike 17miles,从8000多尺的海拔爬到10100左右,camping在9000多尺的高山湖旁,最后又下降到7300的另外一端,整个西海岸最著名的两条trail John Muir Trail 和 Pacific Crest Trail,都算走过了一段了。一路高山湖无数,熊没有碰到,废弃的?Indiana Jones Style铁轨一条(枕木啊。。。),外加几个水坝。

    第一天的hiking其实有点pushing me to the limit了吧。基本上吃完晚饭,我就悃得只想钻到帐篷里面,事实上也是这样。我都根本没有听到天文学家在那里讲解天上的星座。第二天体力倒是恢复得挺好,还拍到几张日出的照片。像我这样习惯于晚起的人,这种照片属于可遇不可求了吧。




    April 01

    In the place of nowhere

    There is a place that was created accidentally by nature. There is an oddly amazing lake that must NOT be overlooked. There is a deserted place infused with strong odor. There is a group of people willing to keep their faith with no other's help.
     
    It's about 150 miles east of LA.
     
    Key words: Salton Sea, Bombay Beach, Niland, Salvation Mt.
     
     
    December 18

    A place called the city

         
     
    San Francisco对我始终是一个非常有感情的城市。到美国的第一天的意外大变故就让我在这里滞留了许久,离开的时候却觉得这是天赐的享受。这些年来虽然也经常由于种种原因路过这里,或者是来会朋友。每次的时间也总是紧凑到略微驻足一下而已。这半年住在湾区以来,倒是有不少朋友也从南加过来游玩,我做了不少次导游尽所谓的地主之谊。虽然我家离这个城市还有快60mile。就这样原来去过的地方又去了,有些以前听说的也到访了,顺带还发现了些从来都不知道的地方,也算是这半年的收获吧。这次快要离开湾区前,把积累的整理一下,就直接上照片吧。
     
    PS: 照片在picasa上已经大多标识地点,方便某些靠gps的同学做导游。


    March 01

    Leo in the Lion City

    论RP
     
    My labmate complained to me that it was her bad day. Not only she got some tooth-ache and we don't have any insurance, so it cost her $60 to put some pain-relief as a temp pacifier. But also on her way to the school...
     
    Well, she was waiting for a bus and a white van stopped in front of her, asking whether she needs a ride (Sounds familiar?). She reminded my free-ride story so she was happy jumpping into the van. It turned out to be a luxury taxi and the ride finally charged $5.
     
    If she had not heard of my free-ride story, she would not take that van... She finally concluded on such tragdic day. 
     
    lol, how to get a free ride in Singapore?
     
    *It should be around evening time, because in the morning everyone's busy going to work.
    *You are the only one waiting on the busy stop.
    *Dress casual, but a little bit "花枝招展" (quoted from Gracia).
    *Don't staring at the street, play a cell phone game instead.
    *Most importantly, save your daily RP
    February 17

    过年

    人在新加坡能感受到更多的过年气氛。
     
    牛车水的街道几周前就开始铺开了摊位,周末的人群拥挤到象上海的南京路,闷热的天里挤出一身汗来,结果还是什么都没买,没能提起勇气去排队。
     
    门口的钟叔还不忘邀请我们这里几个异乡的过客来“捞鱼生”。一个盆里放满了各种讨口彩的凉菜,放了点酸甜酱就开始捞起来。边捞还要念念有词,把能想到的大吉大利都说出来:年年有余,龙马精神,身体健康。。。现在想起来还忘了说paper高中,qual过关咯。
     
    小菜下肚,居然就有XO喝,还有红包拿。
     
    今晚的年夜饭去老板家吃。
     
    有朋友对我说,去年对属龙的人来说,有点不太吉利。虽然多少有点有感而发,但是都已经过在那边了。
     
    My dearest friends, wish you a very good chinese new year!
    November 09

    The Golden City

    On top of the door of Prague City Hall, it is engraved "Prague, the capital of the kingdom". That is, Bohemia. The kingdom passed away, the spirit is imperishable. The spirit of freedom.
     
    I rambled the old town for two days, and rugged passages like elixir seducing me to restlessly explore every corner, even nameless. The city is gorgeous, not only is the royal castle, but also more amazingly, every civil building tells you a different story. The murals, decos, paintings, and colors, no matter whether the style is baroque, gothic, or nenaissance, are always vivid.
     
    No one would miss the Astronomical Clock, a masterpiece running from the 15th century. People flux into the corner of the old town sqaure to watch "The Walk of the Apostles" at the point of every clock. I stared at the astronomical dial speculating the "sun" and the "moon"'s position. Apparently, I have no idea about the Ptolemaic system. But at least I can read the zodiac.
     
    The greatest honor of the city belongs to the people fighting for the freedom. Wenceslas Square, the hub of the city, and the country, is reigned by a statue of Saint Wenceslas, "Saint Wenceslas, duke of the Czech land, prince of ours, do not let perish us nor our descendants". On that end is bordered by the Czech National Museum. Looking down onto the corner in front of the museum, a double cross lying on two humps, commemorating Jan Palach and Jan Zajíc, martyrs of the freedom. Czech people never were, and might never ever will be a belligerent force. But the virtue of peace outcomes a dignified identity. This was the place where "Velet Revolution" happened. A non-violence victory of people's will.
     
    The Vltava river carves the old town into two parts. Charles bridge welds the western royal hill with the eastern civil quarter from the 14th century. Stepping on it was like a contemporary witness in the medieval time. I sneaked into the old town bridge tower and stood on the top patio sniffing the sunset breeze, like sipping the aroma of cabernet. Never have seen mass scarlet roofs shimmered into a golden unity. It surely was.
     
    Czech artifacts are exquisite. Not to mention the renowned luminous bohemian crystal, but also the wooden figures. They are so adorable. Remember the figures that were played by kids of the von Trapp family in the Sound of Music? They are alive, in every joint of the city.
     
    I love this city in the sense that it is a place for every citizen and visitor. Even a bit debauchery, but the experience of true and beauty is tremendous. Still the pride of being free is the rhythm everlasting.
     
    On the last glimpse upon Prague from 10,000 feet, my guts bestowed.
    September 18

    Krakow, Poland, cont.

    去欧洲开会前向David请假,于是他问我去哪里? "Krakow? My mom was from there!... Poland is beautiful. It's sad that people usually don't realize it's beautiful. People just want to get the land there...Coutries fighting each other to get it for so long."
     
    Why? I hope I can get the answer in this historical capital of Poland.
     
    *****************************************************************
    一个人的旅行往往会有更多意外的收获,我在纽约的机场转机时,好不容易找到一个电源插座,接上笔记本打坐在地上,随意向边上的人问了一句"so you are also going to Poland, huh?" 引来了一个故事"ya, I am actually moving to Poland. My girlfriend is from there. She said the city is so beautiful. I've never been there before, but I have sold my house. And here I am, ready for aboard... You know, New York is so expensive... I won't have to worry about my pension once I move to there... it's pretty cheap there... and the medicare is well covered... Couldn't be better for a retired man like me... I gonna find an apartment there first and everything will be settled down before my girlfriend goes to there. My BMW 6 will be shipped to there next week..." Everything could be happened in the big apple, right? 没想到我在那里短短转机的几个小时都会遇上。话题一打开,这个意大利裔美国人更是海阔天空的和我聊起他的饮食,还有他引以为豪的葡萄酿酒术来。也许我是一个很好的倾听者,他忍不住向我透露了一点酿葡萄的祖传机密来,当然只是隐隐约约的一些,我想我还根本没有弄清那几样东西怎样先搞到。他的手机响了 "Baby, I am fine. Don't worry about me. Everything's gonna be fine. If everyone there speaks Chinese, I will let them know my Chinese. If there is a way, we gonna find it... I am pretty sure everything's gonna be fine." I do think so.
     
    看来我是那个航班上唯一的一个亚洲人,飞机一着路波兰,便有边上的人热情对我说"Welcome to Poland!" "Do you wanna know where to find Sushi?" 我正迫切想尝尝波兰菜肴哩。Ilya早就对我说过"Polish sausages are so damn good"。
     
    Krakow的机场很小,名字却如雷贯耳"John Paul II International Airport"。前任教皇就出生在这个城市,家乡人们自然要用他来荣耀一番。一路颠簸的坐着公车来到城里,没想到事先预定旅馆的人居然给错了线路图,越坐越觉得是否过了,仓皇中周边的人没有一个会讲英语,这下真的闷掉了。已经坐了17多个小时的飞机,人困得不行,也没买地图。提着行李走了许久,真有totally lost的感觉。
     
    几番折腾后总算在下午赶到了conference site,晚上在皇宫山上参加reception。
     
    ************************************************************************
    老城区西南的Wawel Hill上矗立着波兰王国的皇宫和Wawel Cathedral。走进皇宫建筑才发现真的可以用朴素来形容,一个中央庭院被周围三层的建筑包围起来,外墙上的修饰也很少。相比之下隔壁的Wawel Cathedral倒是金碧辉煌,走入里面看到很多crypt,打听一下原来就是历代波兰国王的棺木,有点像Lord of Ring里面那种石棺,面上栩栩如生的雕刻着一个平躺着披挂战袍手持宝剑的战士,就是被埋葬的那个人的最后雕像。
     
    站在山丘上向西望去,Wista river就在山脚下缓缓的流淌,暮色中一切都很平静。这很美,是一种留于内在的美。
     
    Reception结束后,信步走下Wawel hill。欧洲城市的一个好处是可以随时随地随便走走,有一种人的感觉,在LA已经很久没有过了。路上不时开过一辆有轨电车,丁丁当当的,在配着老城区里那些连体的老建筑,恍惚就是小时候看二战片里拍摄的那些老城,灯光也一样的有点昏暗,行人不太多,但不觉得孤独,更谈不上恐怖。
     
    ************************************************************************
    那天参观完Auschwitz回来后,一看时间还早,就在老城区里逛了几个小时。二次大战中,基本上所有的波兰城市都被德军严重破坏了,现在的华沙是人们根据以前的老照片和资料重新建造的。Krakow因为是德军的总部,破坏比较小,这个老城区还是完整的保留了下来,成为了世界遗产。从正北进入老城,第一个建筑叫Barbekan,一个堡垒建筑,非常的穆斯林风格。整个老城还有一部分城墙包围着,城墙根有着许多卖画的摊位。街道都是非常窄的,弯弯曲曲的,突然意识到在这种地方有GPS也是不管用的,因为在很多路口不是向左转向右转就可以说清的,有很多路口可以选择。其实也不用GPS,到了这里大家都会愿意亲自体验接触一下。城区的建筑是古朴的,Kanonicza路上的建筑,从14-15世纪起就再也没有更改过。碎石路,很多斑驳的外墙,还可以发现些圣母像刻在墙上。阳台上往往会种上些花,鲜艳的映衬在蓝天下。
     
    走到中心广场,东边有着一栋非常高大的建筑,是St. Marii Cathedral。整点时教堂的钟声响起,并不恢宏,跟着就有人在楼顶的一个窗户透出来吹起号来,非常响亮,整个旧城都听得到。当年蒙古大军杀到,站在楼顶的号手第一个发现军情,吹起号来发出警告,被蒙古人发现一箭射死,却也给城里的人更多的时间来准备。到现在,号声都会徒然中止,来纪念那位牺牲者。记忆中蒙古铁骑最后踏平了整个波兰,但是自由的勇气会永远被纪念。
     
    走入St. Marii Cathedral,才发现外观朴素下内在却是极其奢华。波兰是一个天主教占有极其重要地位的国家,我随后的旅程中一直可以发现教堂始终是最重要的建筑,保护得非常好。一缕阳光的照射下,一位神父正做着忏悔,坐在一个神龛中,全神贯注的。我费了很大的劲才找到一个可以帮助固定的位置,拍下这庄重的一幕。
     
    雅盖龙大学(University of Jagiellonski) 在老城的西边保留着一些建筑。作为波兰最好的大学和中欧第二古老的大学(1364年),还是值得顺道拜访一下的。走进去时发现正有一个European History of Science Conference在那里召开。波兰王国的全盛期同时也是科学的领先时,不要忘了哥白尼是波兰人。
     
    老城区的古朴建筑也不能挡住和外界的接触,很多的门面都已经改为商场,就如这世上的很多地方一样。麦当劳也早就占了一个角落。走进一家时装店,背景里正放着Cassie的"me and you"。波兰已是欧盟的一员,这两年发展颇快,我在机场甚至碰到了过来做生意的中国人。
     
    走出老城区东南角不多远,有一片地方叫Kazimiez,是曾经的犹太区。在二战中被严重破坏(想象一下一个杀人窟就在几十里外,这里怎么能保全),不过现在还是可以找到很多犹太教堂和餐馆。当年波兰国王特许犹太人在这里建立自己的一片家园,虽然方圆几里,却可以让一个漂泊的民族得以栖身。哪里会想到最终还是可以被人毁掉,不管在那里待了多少世纪,始终无法被人承认身份,也无法保护自己。我最后在一个犹太墓地走过,树荫下显得非阴暗。因为从Auschwitz回来后这些都觉得是小巫见大巫,感慨的是这些犹太人的墓实在是太挤了,从来都没有想到过人死后会被迫这么挤在一起。被人恩赐的土地就只有这么大,只能优先照顾活人了吧。到了这里,觉得犹太人绵绵几千年的复国情节实在是合情合理。
     
    ************************************************************
    参加晚宴的路上和一位挪威的教授一同坐车上,因为研究方向不同,反而海阔天空的聊了很多别的东西。我们从他儿子现在所在的Michigan的恶劣冬天谈起,说到加州的温暖四季。我向他解释加州天气的背后是洋流的影响,于是他说到在波兰的波罗的海沿岸,因为同样是洋流的影响,有着一些常年不冻的港口,一般的同纬度的港口每年有半年都不能通航,这里却不会。这对于周边的国家来说实在是太为珍贵了,难怪这个国家始终被虎视眈眈的关注着。迄今有一片俄罗斯的土地与波兰接壤,却与俄罗斯本土分隔,孤零零的插在那里,波罗的海海军的总部就在那里。
     
    感觉波兰这个民族有着含蓄的美。风土人情上无一不透露出这点。波兰最为出名的纪念品是琥珀。是那种不起眼,要细看起来会发现生命的瞬间被永久保留下来。这个国家的地理位置,整个历史就决定了她不能显眼的展示自己。但是她从来都没有放弃自己的风格,就象这个国家最后能独立生存下来。
     
    ***********************************************************
    回程的班机上遇到了位Wisconsin的教授,他刚参加完那个在雅盖龙大学举办的会议。得知我的homtown是Shanghai,就惊呼到"my grandparents were there for very long... they left Shanghai the day before the communists took that city... I went to Shanghai last summer... Peace Hotel, you know, a very good place, the view is stunning...It's so amazing to see a new town like Pu Dong could be developed in ten years... That shows the magic of capitalism" 他也提到了"sometimes I just think it's too fast. They should have preserve more old stuff, like the buildings... well, it's just my feeling" No, that's also my feeling.  I become more and more longing for my old house, our old house, like uncle Jimmy. Not only because I spent my childhood there, but also I always think it is such a beautiful mansion!!! Red bricks, wooden poles, marble fireplace, tiled color windows... Uncle Jimmy has been searching in San Francisco for years but nothing could ever replace it.
     
    Beauty is not a matter of time, it is a reflection of perfect.
    September 12

    Krakow, Poland

    这篇文章有需要做一些心理准备,就如我当天所经历的那样,始终要鼓起勇气。黑暗的东西总是存在,我们不应选择逃避,或者视而不见。我只是如实叙述。
     
    城不大,连带周边有三个世界遗产。经过一天调整时差,寻思着可以趁白天去一个必定要拜访的,傍晚还可以赶回来出席晚宴,于是周三一早就搭上了长途车。一个半小时的车程,一个安静的小镇,一个恐怖的名字--奥兹维新(Auschwitz)。
     
    车站走不远就是一号集中营的博物馆,也是最初的那些建筑。一早人还不多,三三两两的在凉爽的秋风中走去。大门上写着"Arbeit macht frei" (Work will set you free),很讽刺,不是吗?走进时刚看一下,觉得像个监狱,丝网重重,岗哨林立,一栋栋两三层楼的砖房就在这包围之中无处可逃。进来的时候忘了拿个地图,心想算了吧,反正一样也是随意走走,时间多得是。基本上每个砖房都被改造成一个主题展览,比如波兰抗击德军侵略,战前波兰犹太人生活状况,集中营里的纪录档案等等。渐渐的,主题越来越沉重,脚步不由得放慢下来。整房整房的皮箱,鞋子,衣服,甚至假肢,孩子的玩具,就堆在那里。那些可怜的人曾经以为只是搬个家而已,带上了所有的值钱家当,哪知道最后剩下的只是些最不值钱的身外物。这些都还不算得恐怖的,走入其中的一间,居然堆满了头发!集中营里最后找到近两吨的头发!还有不知道多少被当作织物的原材料50分1公斤的卖掉了。一边的窗里展列着当时用这些头发编成的地毯。人性的丑陋居然可以至此,安然的走在所谓的劣等民族上?
     
    走出这些房间我走了一个岔道,因为觉得前面还有很多楼房,而正好看到有条另外的路通向一个类似绞架的地方。路的尽头却是一个像地堡的建筑,走进去才看到一个说明"You are in the place where tens of thousands of people were killed..."。原来这就是毒气室。走入紧挨着的房间才发现居然这么小。最多时2000人像闷罐一般被屠宰,只需要3罐毒气。不是那种大到我们小时候用的液化气的罐头,只是像超市里买的食品罐头那么小。一盏蜡烛微弱的照着,这里有着数万的冤魂永远不应被忘记。头皮发麻的走到隔壁房间,我才意识的杀人的效率居然可以这样,这里就直接是焚尸炉。纵然鲜花依偎在那里,我还是无法承受独自一人待在这个人间地狱(当时就我一个人在里面,别的人都还没有逛到这里),飞步跑了出来。阳光真好。
     
    平静一下,觉得还是不要空手而归。要自己来记录这一切。于是再度折返,走入这房间,深呼吸的使自己的手平稳下来,拍了两张照。
     
    照原路返回砖房中,继续走走看看。也许刚才的经历实在无法马上平静下来,恍恍惚惚中走过了很多展览。印象中深的是一个纪念捷克犹太人的展览,整个房屋被黑色笼罩,地板铺上了枕木,走上去吱吱作响,背景中火车声隆隆,远远的矗立的两块墓碑(很快就会知道为什么是这样的安排)。另外一个是被害犹太人的纪念屋,也是黑漆漆的。深沉的希伯来民谣在那里吟唱,无尽的哀伤与屈辱。
     
    走到路的尽头是第11号建筑,对于集中营里的人来说就是通向死亡的地方。最早的毒气试验在这里,最多的枪杀在这里,各种折磨人的方法也在这里。我只觉得当天是个晴天,对我来说真是太幸运了。
     
    然而这些只是所谓的一号营,三公里外有一个更大的地狱Birkenau,或者叫二号营。如果说一号营给人的第一印象还是一个监狱的话,二号营就根本不会让人有生存的希望。铁路直接通到了大门里面,而那个地方更是贴切的叫做death gate。放眼望去,二号营大许多倍,房子却更简陋。因为人根本不需要多待。火车直接从远方输送过来,通过死亡之门,铁路的尽头就是两个更大的毒气室(战争结束前被毁坏来消除罪证)。我走在二号营里,天气真的开始起风了,这是我人生中最直面黑暗的一天。
     
    二号营的最北端,是一片纪念碑。整个地面用碎石铺成,每颗代表着一个冤去的灵魂。没人可以知道到底多少人死在这里,因为很多都被毁掉了。但是我们一定要记住他们,记住这个地方。
     
    For ever let this place be
    a cry of despair
    and a warning to humanity,
    where the Nazis murdered
    about one and a half
    million
    men, women, and children,
    mainly Jews
    from various countries
    of Europe.
     
    Auschwitz-Birkenau
    1940 - 1945
     
    能够自由的活着,真好!
     
     
    July 07

    Laidback

    The summer in Miami is so humid and hot, I would like to do nothing, except being laidback.
     
    Daniel was right: the beaches on the Florida Keys are much better than those of SoBe. I especially enjoy the magnificance of Bahia Honda Beach, so creamy and smooth. The Atlantic ocean is very warm and clear. I soaked into the emerald. Even when I was around 100 feet away from the beach, it's only waist deep. SoBe is exotic in the sense of great bodies, hot chicks, and endless parties. Bahia Honda, on the other hand, is secluded and tranquil. There were a few guys playing kite wind surfing. I was stunned to find out one guy was disabled, with the left leg amputated.
     
    Villa Vizcaya is a master piece, which is quite beyond my expectation. I was quite surprised that there is few travel guide on the bbs mentioned this "hidden" gem.
     
    Cuban food is good. Especially the chicken noodle and fried pork chunk. Just find out that the cuban restaurant close to my home is also called "Versailes", though the food is so good as the one in Miami (just tried it tonite).
     
    Have I got tanned? At least me don't think that's enough. I would have to stay laidback on the pacific beach.
     
     
    June 18

    Unexpected Trip Cont.

    I took the red eye flight to Ottawa. So cramped in the 757 cabin, I was like sh*t when arrived in Ottawa. I booked a hostel, which was very shabby. Couldn't complain too much, I was crave to get a bed lying down.
     
    The conference was on the Quebec side. It's so interesting when the tram drive across the Ottawa river, French becomes the first language. Besides that, I guess there is nothing exciting at all.
     
    After my presentation, I took an afternoon off for a walk around the city. It's not a vast metro city so I quickly finished my first round. My gut felt so doomed and I did not want to go back to the hostel so early cuz there was nobody else living on the same floor with me. So I went for signning up the guided tour of the paliament hall to blow sometime. I randomly picked the group @5:50 PM though I could fit in @5:15 PM. Simply cuz I wanted to have a quick bite.
     
    I met Andre in the tour, who is a professional journalist photographer. I was very cheered up in the next couple of hours because I heard tons of interesting stories while we kept walking, walking, and walking.  I was guided to many places with the best view at the best time. Finally my camera was out of battery and I had to wait for very long to catch a good one in front of the unknown soldier memorial. I didn't even had a chance to check the focus before taking it. Fortunately it turned out to be OK.
     
    That evening was chilling yet refreshing.
    March 23

    Another Trip in the West

     
     Dear God, make me a bird. So I could fly far. Far far away from here.
    Jenny Curran
     
    春假又一如既往的想离开LA,这次私心多了点,没有将就去那些已经去过的地方。订了一个漫游4州的计划,要走一下西部的边边角角。一开始便遇到了LA的塞车,一直到Phoneix又堵上了,之后是畅通无阻的大路,蜿蜒崎岖的山路,还真地走了挺多路,开了2,700mile才回来。
     
    Day 1: Tucson Sat. 3/11/2006
    我们在沙漠小镇Tucson当天遇到了风雨交加的天气,还有零星点点的冰粒,真难以想象是在sunny state。
     
    Tucson最吸引我之处是生物圈二号(Biosphere 2)。在如此干旱之地建造一个全封闭的自然环境,包括了海洋,热带雨林,沙漠等各种环境。让人类完全的不依赖外界进行生活,这份探索的努力和魄力使她成为我心中的一个科学圣堂。Biosphere距离Tucson downtown 并不远,沿着77号公路北上进入一些小山丘便可以看到,乌云笼罩之下好似一个异星球的实验站。
     
    当天带领我们参观的一位老先生显然当年参加了整个项目的设计和运行,介绍的时候如数家珍。印象最深的便是两个不起眼的建筑算作为Biosphere的肺。只因空气总量限定的条件下,空气的热胀冷缩需要一个空间来变化体积以保持气压的恒定,于是便有了一整套复杂的装置在那里象肺一样运动。平时做论文可以假设这个假设那个,一切简化到一个理想状态,做到实际系统,便由不得这般想当然了。
     
    Biosphere的成功与否自有众人评说,整个系统孤独的矗立在山上,如同当年的实验人员耐住寂寞与世隔绝,却会在那里等待重新启动的一天。
     
    Saguaro National Park 分东西两区在Tucson周围,我们去了西区。开入山中,就看到漫山遍野的Saguaro仙人掌耸立在那里。在那么鸟不生蛋的地方能长到二三十米高,确实值得建个国家公园来保护。到达那里时太阳之露了个小脸,匆匆拍了几张照片后便狂风大作。Saguaro自是巍然不动,我们几个却是最后受不了风雨袭击,赶快上车一路开到Visitor Center去盖章了。公园外有个Desert Museum,不属于国家公园系统,我的pass不能使用。若有兴趣倒是绝对值得前往,比Huntington Library的Desert Garden要完整许多。
     
    当天的最后一站是Pima Air Museum。亮点生平第一次亲眼见到了黑鸟,人类投入实用的最快的飞机。美国人到也不非常珍惜,就安置在露天的展览场里风吹雨淋。附近的Davis-Monthan Air Force Base是空军的废弃飞机安置场所,一路开过可以遍历5000多架飞机。我们当时开错了一条路,只看到一小部分。
     
     
    Day2: White Sands National Monument & Santa Fe Sun. 3/12/2006
    从Las Cruces出来一路向东不久便可到达White Sands。 中间路过一个山下坡还可以遥望著名的White Sands Missile Range, 研制国家防御导弹的机构。远远望去并不会看到任何细节,有时间可以驱车前往,有各种导弹在广场展览。
     
    刚进入White Sands,巨大的沙丘便在眼前。远比在Death Valley看到的沙丘更为壮观,更为震撼。阳光照射下,一片纯净的天地。大风天,却顾不得太多,径直冲上去。然而自然的力量却不容忽视,稍许片刻我的眼睛便被吹得受不了。看到有株低矮的灌木,不管三七二一站到那里,说也奇怪,一点风都没有了。稍作休整,便振作起来向远处行去,走到脚下只有自己的脚印了,回头一望,有种恍然的感觉。零星点点可以看到yucca,一种顽强的沙漠植物,New Mexico的州花。
     
    车继续向公园深处开去,这才见到更大的沙丘,更纯的景色,纯到只有白沙与天地。世间荒芜到这般,只有自然主宰。
     
    驱车北往来到New Mexico的首府Santa Fe,几个小时的车程象是进入另一个世界,严寒中的一个幽静小镇。城区里清一色的Adobe样式建筑,简朴精致。用原木作梁柱,外涂层泥土,便是印第安的栖息之所。将这个样式放大到整个城区,别有风味。我们抵达时天色已晚,只能匆匆一窥,抓住夕阳的余辉交映在Inn @ Loretto 前。从来没有认真研究一下印第安的文化。Santa Fe让我意识到任何一种文明自有独到之处,值得揣着尊重之心了解。时间所限,没有再去附近的Taos和Aztec Ruins。每次行程总会有种种遗憾,即便这次安排了4天半之久。
     
    Day3: 4 Corner Monument, Utah Mon. 3/13/2006
    Albuquerque一路沿40号公路西行,才意识到昨天路上下了大雪。庆幸定旅馆的时候没有再更西边的城市落脚,要不然黑天开雪路不知要多久才可以到达。
     
    今天的第一个景点便是4 Corner Monument,所谓一脚踏上四州的地方。一个开阔的山谷中飘扬着 Arizona , New Mexico , Colorado , 和Utah的旗帜,站到中间的纪念标便算是去过了好多地方,何乐而不为。这个地标算是巧合还是当年美国把土地从墨西哥那里抢来时刻意凑了个原点?无从考证了。
     
    不管怎么说,Utah是个游览的好地方,没想到这么快我又过来转一下,把上次的地方补缺。出4 Corner Monument走160,191过Bluff,转95向西就可以到Natural Bridge National Monument。所谓natural bridges,极像arches。因为海拔高度比arches要低许多,自然界的侵蚀作用小了不少,所以natural bridge的拱就可以更为粗壮。Arches National Park里的拱洞,让人一看便生敬畏之心。这里的拱,不禁会让人有上去走一走的愿望。其实要真正走上去,又岂是如此容易。公园里共有三个天然桥,白雪皑皑下,只能远处眺望,无缘走近观赏了。个人以为这个地方还是颇值得一游的。只是如果刚从Arches National Park南下,看多了那里上千个拱洞,便会觉得不过如此。人就是这样,再好的奇观,也要多变化,才会有好奇心去探访。
     
    沿261公路南下,便到达这次旅行中的高潮部分。261在下山之前有个标牌:Mokee Dugway。车停边上可以看见一片广阔的天地,正是我们前往之处。又有提示说1100 feet drop next 3 miles,堪称在美国遇到最陡的一段山路。同行人员一致要求我放慢速度,安全第一。饶是这样以20-30英里的时速缓缓而下,气压变化也可以感觉到。
     
    转到163公路,路过Mexican Hat,著名的Monument Pass就在前方。那是电影里Forrest Gump在跑了3年2月14天16小时后停下来说累了想回Sweet Home Alabama的地方。路过的车很少,我们可以肆意站在路中间拍出那个远景。阳光不甚多,更添荒凉气氛。这种场景,正是脑海里记忆最深的美国西部场景:一条道路通向天边,四周可以任意驰骋,远方是希望的阳光。下次再来,一定开辆四轮驱动车,选上条四驱道路放肆一下。
     
    翻过Monument Pass,从另一个角度回看这些Butt,阳光还是被云遮住了些。于是我们就在路边等,等待夕阳照射到那些远方的雄伟山石。一切都是自然而又意外的。阳光照到了那边的景致,红色的山石显出金色的光泽,却又是在一片黑压压的乌云之下,只能说太幸运了可以碰到。
     
    Day4: Page, Meteor Crater, Sedona Tue. 3/14/2006
    Page是个好地方,有山有水。一座Glen Canyon Dam把浑浊的Colorado River 彻底的沉淀下来,在高原地区呈现出一个深蓝的湖泊。Glen Canyon Dam没有Hoover Dam那么名气大。然而却是她挡住了诸多泥沙,使Hoover Dam可以更久使用。
     
    有免费的导游带领我们直达大坝底下的发电机组。带领我们的老先生应有70多,依然神清气爽。只因退休后wanna see his buddy,所以乐得这份工作。八个发电机组当天只有四个在运行,今年雨水不多,下游供水更为紧要。标牌上不断跳动着大坝建成以来的总发电利润,美国人的务实精神由此可见一般。导游坦率的承认迄今尚未收回所有投资,但有信心满满的说肯定是一个好的投资云云。应该是吧,试想我们平日在数千英里之外LA每天用的大部分水还是从这条Colorado River输送过去的。
     
    出得大坝,在边上的Glen Canyon National Recreation Area稍微遑了一下,时间不多,没法去到那个世界最大的天然桥Rainbow Bridge了。下次若来,那个光影变态到极点的Antelope Canyon也是可选之处,需要好相机和天气。
     
    南下离开Page,便走了旅行中唯一的一段hiking trail去往Horseshoe Bend。清澈的 Colorado River在这里有了一个大的U字弯。比起那个在Canyonland National Park旁的Dead Horse Shoe更为漂亮。又是一顿相机猛拍。 我们接着直奔Flagstaff边上的Meteor Crater。彗星撞地球最后只落得一个粉身碎骨的下场,最大的铁陨残存让人难以想象曾经有多大的身躯可以砸出这么个大坑来。
     
    旅行的最后一站是Sedona,几个小时的车程让我们从荒原返回了森林。Sedona是个非常可爱的小城,流水环绕,树林耸立,还有红色的山石。赶到那里时已是接近天暮,还是象前一天一样等到最后一缕光芒照到Red Rock Crossing。一个安安静静的公园,几个逃离都市的人。
     
    Epilogue
    三分饱同学几天没有吃过中餐,LA的小美已经让他魂萦梦绕,唠唠叨叨的愿意忍受多几个小时的饥饿。Sedona回Los Angeles的路漫漫,500多英里,出发的时候已是晚上7点。最终还是到了,用了不到两缸的油和一罐Red Bull。 一直喜欢那句话:
     
    When I got tired, I slept. When I got hungry, I ate. When I had to go, you know, I went.
     
    At least I’ve tried to be sort of.
     
     
    点点滴滴积累下来,国家公园已经游览了11个,整个西部就差中西这个地区没走过了。回想一下,就是壮阔二字。无论是白雪皑皑的 Mt. Rainier,Crater Lake, 还是郁郁葱葱的Yosemite, Sequoia, 到荒漠寂寥的Death Valley, Arches, 这片土地有如此众多引人之处,让我一次次造访。
     
    然而很多地方却是需要亲眼见到才知道世间竟可以这样塑造。就如Delicate Arch, 非得要经过一个漫长的爬坡,之前却是一点暗示都没有,直到力竭,路忽然一转,那个精美的拱门就在悬崖边上。小心走过去才意识到她一直高傲的在那里等你朝拜,如此高大让你只能仰视。
     
    也有风景虽好,可是名声在外游人过多便把一切都变味了。个人以为去Grand Canyon便是最失望的一次,那么多人挤在观景点却连Colorado River都不知在哪里。下次去一定要走下去,走到河边。Yosemite也是类似感觉,头两次去不在旅游旺季,有着一种探索趣味,虽然只在山谷里,到也乐在其中。到了第四次去那里,整个山谷游人如织,让我提不起一点兴趣。意外之处在于最后了北边120公路沿线,来到几个海拔10000尺以上的高山湖,不甚引人注意,但却是同行一致认为这才是优胜美地当之无愧的理由。这次的旅行也是这般,没有太多所谓的国家公园,一路走下来,极致风景遍历。
     
    Yellow Stone会去的,人少的时候便行。去过的美景也会再访,无论是 UT, AZ, whatever, 只因喜欢。
     
    Most people are on the world, not in it
    John Muir
     
    Thanks for Wudi's pics.
    December 31

    Utah Again

    I have to admit I am the kinda of the person doing things repeatly if I was satisfied at the first try. Like Yosemite, I've been there again & again. Same thing happened to Utah, where I had a wonderful trip last year. Xmas in LA really can't get too much cuz the weather is warm and the city is crowded. So I planned to go to that remote place again. 
     
    Zion
    This time I only had a hike on the canyon overlook trail. Why people would highly recommend this place? The hiking part is so unique among national parks. I still don't have a chance to try the famous angle's landing trail , but I am surely to be back sometime and challenge it. Walking to sweating, to be exhausted, till reaching  the top of the peak is to "pure the heart", which is the truly meaning of Zion.
     
    CanyonLand
    Many people would cheered "This looks like Grand Canyon so much" at the first glimpse. Not exactly, especially the needles part, which I didn't have enough time to visit. Sigh...
     
    Arches
    It was a quite long hike to the Delicate Arch. I didn't want to miss any piece of the sunset view on that legendary natural wonder, but we were kinda of late on the trip that day, I had to catch up the schedule and kept checking the time on other sites. We reached the trail head around 3:30 PM. The hike was about 1.5 miles to the site, and I didn't know how difficult the hike would be. Fortunately, though some parts of the hike was quite like the one I took at Tioga Road in Yosemite. but the elevation is much lower which makes it much easier.
     
    We arrived the Arch around 4:30 PM. Only a few people was waiting for the sunset. Some had very professional photo equipment settled for that moment. I only had a Canon S410 (I must get an SLR next year). After having taken several shots, I decided to get a good spot facing the Arch and enjoying the view. I finally got a chance to appreciate the power of nature at the right moment, and memorize it using my natural bio mechanism, what should I ask for more? It paid off all the effort I had in this trip.
     
    *
    I still missed several attractions in this trip. The most desired one is the monument valley. It's not too bad to have something leftover, I have a reason, an incentive to get there in the future again. I will.
     
     
     
    December 28

    Santa Barbara

    I owe this blog for Dedian before the holiday season... Actually I started it then got messed and lazy to proceed. Dedian has been there with his wife, but I are still stuck...  I don't wanna give up but the experience of that place is so mingled that I hope the blog won't look like a potpourri 2 much.
     
    *
    I'd rather regard Santa Barbara as a town than a city. So unique it is: The only town you can find in SoCal with beaches facing to the south. The local government even banned giant billboards on the streets which makes it less commercial than any other places in SoCal. Almost all buildings in the city are built and painted in spanish style.
     
    *
    Talking about the best place in that town, I think the courthouse surely do. Standing on top of the tower enjoying the city and ocean view in the late afternoon is my favorite. The sunset is the best match for the red roofs of surroundings.
     
    Mission Santa Barbara is called the Queen of Missions. My first visit to there was the day that Pope John Paul II passed away. The memorial service was sacred and touching though I am not a Catholic. 
     
    There are so many beautiful gardens in front of the resident houses. I always like to take a very long walk around the town with no destination just to appreciate these gardens. Hanging around the city is really fun cuz there is no need to worry about getting lost. Once you get to State St, everying will be straightforward to figure out the direction. Besides, there are lots of lovely stores and restaurants on that street, it's really worthy to take several hours exploring your interests. 
     
    *
    Solvang is only half an hour driving north of Santa Barbara. But it leads you to another world, a Danish town. The village is full of Danish buildings and food. Having some tea and desserts becomes my addict. There is another mission at the end of the village, which I personally think is better than Mission Santa Barbara.
     
    The interesting part for this village is wine tasting. I have to admit that the movie Sideways inspired me to have my first Santa Barbara trip. Santa Ynez Valley is the south border of California wine country. Solvang is the start point to a bunch of wine tasting stores and vineyards.
     
    *
     
    It’s a living thing. I like to think about what was going on the year the grapes were growing; how the sun was shining; if it rained. I like to think about all the people who tended and picked the grapes. And if it's an old wine, how many of them must be dead by now. I like how wine continues to evolve, like if I opened a bottle of wine today it would taste different than if I'd opened it on any other day, because a bottle of wine is actually alive. And it's constantly evolving and gaining complexity. That is, until it peaks, like your '61. And then it begins its steady, inevitable decline. And it tastes so f*cking good.
     
    What kind of wine you would prefer is really a personal choice. Only wine is so complicated that different people surely into different types. Last time when I visited a wine tasting store there, and waitress highly recommended a Cabernet, but I was so into another Pinot Noir.
     
    Talking about the red wine, there are four classic varieties coming from four grapes coorespondingly: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. How to distinguish them? I don't think there is any reason to make it. Just try all of them and pick the one you like the most. Generally speaking, Cabernet is the most complicated one, rich and complex in flavor. Merlot is a bit softer yet very similar to Cabernet. Napa Valley is famous for these two kinds. Pinot Noir is the most delicate and sensual one, which is very difficult to produce. Oregon and Santa Ynez Valley yield the best in the states. Syrah is kinda of rustic, which I don't like too much. It's very interesting that every character in the movie Sideways represents one kind of these red wines: Miles is surely Pinot Noir. Stephanie is Syrah (I can't image how manly she is, she beat Jack so hard in that movie). Maya, however, could be Merlot (I like Merlot :-)
     
    December 15

    City of Roses

    也许没有多少人会知道美国的玫瑰之城在哪里,是Portland。有一次女足世界杯在美国举行,中国女足正是在那里比赛,媒体有云铿锵玫瑰绽放玫瑰之城之类,只是那时我刚离开那里。
     
    既然是玫瑰之城,在这上面自然要下点功夫,Portland的Washington Park里便有一个International Rose Test Garden。然而对我而言,记忆最为深刻的便是每年的Rose Festival。五月底的一个周末,整个downtown的中心地带便早早的被人沿街占领起来,大家架起椅子,带上snack和毯子,一边聊天一边漫不经心的等到傍晚,便看到了一年一度的Parade。也许在美国更有名的是每年新年Pasadena的Rose Parade,然而在那座城市,这却是代表半年雨季的结束,整个美国最为舒适的夏天就要开始。于是便有了嘉年华的意味,一如我每年都要早早的联系朋友同行,郑重其事。心里更是开始盘算夏天的活动起来。虽然只经历了两次,现在回想起来,就好比是Mardi Gras of New Orleans或者Halloween Parade of West Hollywood。
     
    其实缅因州也有一个Portland,只是不及这个西北部城市出名罢了。说起来这两个城市还真是有渊源∶当年最初同时拥有这片土地的两个人都想用各自家乡的名字来命名,于是就掷币打赌。结果来自缅因州Portland的Francis W. Pettygrove赢了,美国便多了一个Portland。不然就会多了一个Boston。
     
    曾在那里住了快两年。初来乍到时也是失望之情,downtown花了半小时便从一头走到另一头。过了一个月雨季便开始了,起初也不为意,渐渐学业重起来于是每年的上学路便负担重起来。需要先骑车再转轻轨再骑车到学校,在美国也没有自行车雨衣,于是每天都是湿漉漉的。终于有一次在一连两周雨天后发誓一定要学开车和买车,倒也是一种激励,3个小时就学会上路了。
     
    突然有一天上学时,雨过天晴,阳光照下来,看到车站边的红叶,确切说是红叶掺着黄叶掺着橙叶,才意识到异国他乡前所未见的景致,才开始喜欢上了这个城市。
     
    渐渐的就越来越喜欢。downtown中心的pioneer square虽然很小,可是总有千奇百怪的人和事。离家不远便是Nike的总部,经常去那里的园林逛逛,比任何公园都好。往东一个小时车程便到了Columbia River Gorge,便是父亲上次来都由衷感慨的好景致。向西一个半小时就是海边,Oregon的海便是为了看景而在的。雾茫茫的海就着杉树林,走在沙滩上和着风,夏天里非常惬意。然而下海却是需要勇气的。于是便去Newport抓螃蟹,自备工具,捕到多少够份量的公蟹都可以照单全收下。我曾经便宣称Newport是我以后养老之地。
     
    最后便穿着都喜欢Oregonian了,Portland的雨总是绵绵不断的,总是那种连帽的外套,随时往上一带,便如天晴一般随意走动了。
     
    其实是心态变了,有些东西能够在其中找到乐趣便知足了。Portland便是这样,许多细致入微的东西长久了就体会到了。整个downtown不大,规划设计却是全美一流的作品。走在大街上会有很多自动的fountain供行人饮用,当然有时候宠物们也享受了。
     
    如果不带个人感情说这座城市的好处,
    * 没有消费税
    *加油都是有人来服务的,不用小费
    只这两点就够考虑一下了吧。
     
    最终却是不得不离开了,那是在美国第一个正式落脚之地,故而有了这点东西来纪念一下,虽然晚了些,却可以纪录下最深刻的那部分。
     

    She kneels down

    and from the quietness

    of copper

    reaches out.

    We take that stillness

    into ourselves

    and somewhere

    deep in the earth

    our breath

    becomes her city.

    If she could speak

    this is what

    she would say:

    Follow that breath.

    Home is the journey we make.

    This is how the world

    knows where we are.